Why Visit Ninh Binh?
Ninh Binh looks like it belongs on the cover of every Vietnam tourism brochure: towering limestone karsts, glassy rivers, and scenery so perfect it makes even seasoned travellers pause mid-scroll.
But behind the postcard views lies a different reality, overpriced meals, crafty scams, and “hospitality” that sometimes leaves your wallet lighter than your backpack.
I stayed in Ninh Binh for seven days… about five too many and here’s the honest guide I wish I’d read first...
Arrival in Ninh Binh: Storm Wipha and Instant Noodles
After a gruelling 12-hour journey from Hue, we arrived at 9 PM: hungry, tired, and ready to eat anything.
Our homestay was charming and well-located for sightseeing… just not for dinner. The lovely owner explained that most restaurants were closed due to the storm, but she could make us “something.”
That “something” was instant noodles topped with a fried egg, for 25K. It was warm, edible, and barely memorable. After twelve hours on a bus, it wasn’t quite the welcome meal I’d hoped for.
Ninh Binh Food Prices: Phở-gate and the 140 K Noodle Incident
With the storm still raging, boredom and hunger pushed us into a humble-looking roadside eatery called: Phở Tam Cốc.
Beef phở felt like a safe choice. The result? Fine. Not terrible, not great… Just fine. The real surprise came with the bill: 140K for two bowls (about £4).
Now I’m not afraid to spend money on good food, but after three months in Vietnam, I’d never seen prices like that outside Saigon’s upscale spots. Later, I learned neighbouring places charge just 30–50K for the same dish.
Tip: Stick to places with menu prices properly displayed. And unless you’re keen to experience the “foreigner tax” firsthand, you should probably pho-get this place.
Things to Do in Ninh Binh (and the Scams to Avoid)
When the clouds finally broke, I rented a motorbike and hit the road. The landscapes? Every bit as breathtaking as Instagram promises, limestone peaks, emerald paddies, winding rivers. But just as plentiful as the scenery are the scams, so here’s a rundown of what’s worth your time and what to watch out for.
Mua Caves — Incredible Views, Ignore the Parking Scam
The climb up Mua Caves is tough but rewarding: 500 steps to panoramic views over Tam Cốc’s rice fields and karst mountains. Just be ready for locals frantically waving you down before you reach the gate, insisting you must park in their “official” lots for whatever price they dream up. Keep riding and there’s free parking right after the ticket office. Most travellers give in too early and pay needlessly.
Hoa Lu Ancient Capital — Quiet History, Fake Ticket Booths
Hoa Lu is a peaceful stop, with temples surrounded by lush greenery and dramatic mountains. But here, the scams get more creative. Locals set up fake ticket booths charging 200K (£6) when the real entry fee is just 20K (£0.60). The legitimate counter is a little farther along, and free parking is available inside the gate. Don’t be rushed and take a moment to verify before handing over cash.
Ninh Binh Bus Station — Watch Out for Inflated Prices
Public transport is usually straightforward in Vietnam, but Ninh Binh’s bus station was an exception. I decided to buy tickets in person, hoping for a deal versus booking online. I paid 450K per seat for what I was told was a “32-seat sleeper bus,” slightly cheaper than advertised elsewhere… Or so I thought.
When the bus arrived, it turned out to be a budget 38-seat sleeper that sells online for just 350K. Even worse, the cheaper option wasn’t mentioned at all at the station; they only offered “22-seat” and “32-seat” tickets, making it seem like those were the only choices. So in total, I paid 200K extra for an inferior ride.
Tip: Book online, but skip sites like 12Go (they add tourist markups). Use Redbus directly instead, it’s cheaper and easier you only need to translate the page in your browser. [Click here for RedBus website]
Best Places to Eat in Ninh Binh
After a rocky start, I found some genuinely good food spots. Here are three places worth visiting:
Ha Tu Goat Restaurant — 160K (£4.65) | 8/10
Just outside Hoa Lu, this little spot dishes up authentic local specialties without the tourist-trap price tag. Their signature dê xào lân (sautéed goat) is rich and flavourful, maybe a bit heavy for a midday feast, but the fried rice with pork and those gloriously crispy spring rolls absolutely stole the show. The portion was filling, the rice was garlicky, umami-packed, and properly satisfying, it’s the kind of meal that makes you forget you’re eating in the heart of a tourist hub. A genuine, and delicious, surprise.
Jamerik Taco Bar — 375K (£10.60) | 8/10 — Worth it for the Nachos Alone
If you only take one tip from this article: order the nachos from this place. They’re fully loaded with beef, cheese, salsa, guacamole, and sour cream (a rare luxury in Vietnam).
The tacos are solid choice too, I tried all three meat options available and they all have their own unique flavours but my favourite was chipotle chicken. The places doubles as a fun evening hangout with drinks, music, a pool table, board games, and even a PS5. It’s pricier than other spots, but absolutely worth it for western comfort food.
Vịt Quay Ông Phát | 180K (~£5.10) | 10/10
This was hands down my favourite meal in Ninh Binh, I’d recommend it to anyone with a pulse and an appetite. We stumbled across it near our homestay while hunting for food and thought, “Why not?” Best decision ever.
Now, if you’re after a fancy restaurant, this isn’t it. Actually, if you’re after any restaurant seating, this isn’t it, it’s takeaway only. But if you want a real local eatery look no further… It’s so good we went back twice.
The specialty? Duck roasted on a spit, smelling like pure happiness. For 180K (£5.10) we got a whole duck, two soups, two portions of rice, and a bag of salad. No tables, no fuss, just us sitting on a mat on the floor back at the homestay, eating like locals and living like kings.
Click for MAPS LOCATION
Final Thoughts: Is Ninh Binh Worth Visiting?
Ninh Binh is jaw-droppingly beautiful and equally skilled at testing your patience. The scenery will amaze you, the scams will frustrate you, and the food can swing wildly from disappointing to delightful.
Go for the landscapes. Stay a few days (but probably not seven). And whatever you do… watch where you park.